Wakatobi is a great place for macro shots. If you have a good camera like DC, you could get right in on some of the creatures, including this warty frogfish. It looks uncannily like a bright yellow plastic toy covered in coral muck.
It’s of course quite easy to get in close when it’s soft coral. Aside from the fact that it doesn’t run away, I like how the textures really show up when you go in closer. Check it out.
With coral, sometimes you don’t have to go in too close. DC pointed out this barrel sponge which is typically round but this one was heart-shaped! How sweet!
Other ways of getting in close include catching a fish unaware, like how DC did with this poor fella in a barrel sponge. It must’ve been so relieved to get away once he was done with the shot!
Another way is to try getting in under the creature, like with this reef cuttlefish. It looks quite different from the bottom, with its blowhole clearly showing.
Otherwise, just tackle it head on. The cuttlefish will definitely start its aggressive display, which is quite interesting to watch as it changes its colour and pattern, and lifts its tentacles threateningly like so.
Another creature worth getting close to is the anemonefish. This Clark’s anemonefish peers out furtively from the stinging anemone…
… while this clown anemonefish merely looks up in mock surprise, his smaller counterpart taking confidence in the protection of the anemone.
I have a very soft spot for the little creatures and DC was constantly waiting about for me to finish lying in wait for one small creature or another to emerge or stay still enough to photograph, such as this hawkfish.
I was very happy to see quite a few hawkfish there, like this pixy hawkfish with the tasseled dorsal fins.
Then there were the ornate ghost pipefish. It’s normally quite a rare fish to spot, but we saw plenty here. This one is fairly young, as can be seen from its wispy tail.
Then we got some nice young adult specimens like this.
And finally some of the older, darker coloured ones that looked less delicate than the younger fellas.
We also found some of its close cousins, the robust ghost pipefish. They were well camouflaged, looking like brown leaves floating just above the sandy bottom.
Another of my favourites is the pink anemonefish. Here, one shyly looks up as another dodges away from the camera.
I don’t know how rare these spine-cheek anemonefish are, but I was delighted to find them as I’d never seen them outside of the fish books before.
Check out the weird spine jutting out from its cheek!
Other anemonefish had eggs! This is really rare anywhere else, but every trip to Tulamben I’ve seen fish eggs. Have I told you yet how much I love diving at Tulamben?
It was really sweet to see how the parent tended the eggs so carefully.
There were other fish with eggs too, like this sergeant major fish. I think it was really cool how the eggs are purple.
This fish had laid its eggs on the walls of the wreck, and we ascended to an entire expanse of sergeant majors guarding their own eggs. A wonderful sight.
Then there were the juvenile fish, like this baby emperor angelfish.
I like how striking it is, looking like a kid got a white marker and drew circles on the fish.
Other juvenile fish were less pristine, like this bannerfish that made it out of a bigger fish’s jaws just in the nick of time. Poor guy.
Of course other juveniles do much better, like this batfish, looking much more elongated than its adult self.
There were other fish that remained small even as they reached adulthood. One of them is a superstar of the diving world – the pygmy seahorse.
It was almost impossible to get good shots of this shy creature half the size of a fingernail, especially when it turned its back to the camera and resolutely looked away.
Still, no trip to Tulamben would be complete without a couple of pictures of these, imperfect or not.
As always on a dive trip, I’m fascinated by the vividly coloured anemones and their impossibly cute fish. I never get tired of taking photos of them. This time at Redang, some of the anemones were also affected by the bleaching and there were some very unusual colours. This green and blue anemone wasn’t so badly affected as it’s pretty close to the usual green and purple. It made for a beautiful contrast with the bright orange clownfish!
Less normal was this bleached out specimen, though the white and pastel purple-blue was so pretty. Equally pretty was the baby anemonefish taking shelter here.
We then got down to even more bleached anemone, with this little fella both wary and curious of the intruder with the lens.
The worst bits of bleaching hit the panda clownfish. Check out this poor shellshocked fish. My heart goes out to him.
This anemone is not normally white or even pretty fluorescent orange, it’s usually a dark orangey-brown, quite similar in colour to the pandas themselves.
It was really sad how they sat glumly in their bleached homes, not being able to change anemone because they were evolved to only live in one type.
I hope the bleaching has stopped and the anemone recovered by now.
I was in Permuteran to dive two very different locations. The first was Menjangan Island, also known as the island of the deer. To get there, we had to abide by a whole bunch of rules. I like multi-coloured signs like this and I especially liked the rather paternalistic exhortation to make sure all your diving equipment was attached securely to your body.
While the diving at Menjangan Island wasn’t quite as spectacular as the other places I’d dived for this trip, it was very relaxing as there weren’t any challenging currents. The water was beautifully blue as usual and while there weren’t as many pelagics, there was still the odd gem or two. This yellow-spotted trevally was one of them.
Here also was the second time in my diving career I saw a school of squid in broad daylight. The last time I saw a school of squid, it was my first dive. It took more than a hundred dives to see them again.
Closer to the reef were plenty of longfin batfish. Here, they seemed almost excessively friendly, changing quickly from their day colours…
… to night colours as they came in close, as they did when wanting to be cleaned.
For some really odd reason, one of them swam right up to me, as if it was expecting me to do the cleaning honours for it.
There were plenty of parrotfish around. I’m surprised how little photographed these fish are. I think it’s something to do with how shy they are and how they just don’t stay put in one place.
There were others like this grouper that I can’t find in my fish ID book…
… and more familiar ones like this Indian doublebar goatfish hovering over some coral.
Some of the fish came in schools, like the two-spot snappers in their brownish grey raiment.
Others were more solitary, like one of my all-time favourites, the juvenile harlequin sweetlips. I can’t get enough of its unique polka dot pattern.
Some fish lived in crevices, like this yellowbarred jawfish emerging in search of prey.
Others like this fire dartfish seemed to simply hover in one place posing for the camera.
There were other fish that lived in crevices, and some of these you won’t want to get too close to. This fimbriated moray eel is one good example.
Some were small and really difficult to get close to, like the goby. I can’t tell for sure whether this is a common ghostgoby.
I think this is a large (!) whip goby but as usual, I can’t be sure.
Other fish are much more easily identified, like these panda clownfish, also known as Clark’s anemonefish. They were so at home among the stinging anemones…
… as was this anemone shrimp.
Rather camera-shy was this hermit crab, which hid its face swiftly under its shell as the camera clicked.
And then the ones that didn’t seem shy at all – the nudibranchs. I saw a white flabellina that seemed to mimic the coral it was on.
There were others that were even more unidentifiable, like this strange blue one with an orange and white strip outlined by deep blue running down the middle.
I tried to take some nudibranch portraits, some not quite coming out as I’d like as the flash refused to fire.
And others came out much better, with a pensive, slightly lonesome feel that seems quite at odds with the experience of being a nudibranch, perhaps.
Bali as a dive destination really surprised me with the sheer variety and quantity of wildlife to be seen. The rich coral life supported many species that were rare at other more famous dive areas in the region. I could choose no better place than Tulamben to start taking underwater photos. There were lots of Nemos to shoot, though some were shyer than others, like these false anemonefish or clownfish.
The pink anemonefish flashed a bright pink against the brilliant green of their protective homes. Even so, they sulked at the camera rather disagreeably.
It was this panda clownfish that finally posed nicely for me while guarding his pink eggs at the base of the anemone.
Next up, the challenge was to spot and shoot the pygmy seahorses. My task was made far easier with the world’s best dive guide ever, Wayan. It was amazing how he could spot the little creatures so easily and point them out carefully. Here, you can see how tiny a pygmy seahorses is.
Here’s the Denise pygmy seahorse up close, looking so elegant and fragile.
Less delicate looking was the regular Gorgonian pygmy seahorse, though this male is very obviously pregnant. For seahorses, the males carry the eggs while the females swim free. What a great arrangement.
Other rare fish included this longnose hawkfish, a very pretty fish that started my subsequent fascination with hawkfishes of all shapes and sizes.
Then there was the jawfish that burrowed in the sea bottom, only revealing its face and yellow eyebrows to the surface.
And there was the funny-looking ribbon eel that showed off its striped blue body and brilliant yellow mouth, looking like it had a tragicomic accident with a fluorescent yellow marker pen.
Another interesting find was the robust ghost pipefish that looked remarkably like leaves gliding along in the current.
Here’s a video with a pregnant one, you can just about spot its eggs in between its ventral fin parts right at the end of the video.
There were also other creatures like this pretty little cuttlefish so well camouflaged against some stinging coral.
And then there were the pretty nudibranchs, also unglamourously known as sea slugs. There were pink ones with yellow trimmings…
… black and white ones with orange trimmings…
… purely blue ones…
… and even pairs with pinkish brown splotches on them. I bet these fellas must be poisonous, otherwise they’d be way too easy to be spotted and gobbled up!
Don’t think that Layang Layang is only for the pelagics. There’s plenty of macro to be found here, it’s only that sometimes the currents and the wall can be a bit challenging for finding those critters and also getting the perfect shot of that tiny little creature. There was a lot of reef life here, such as this rather surprised looking tomato grouper.
I was also quite pleased to see one of my favourites, a juvenile black snapper with its characteristic black and white stripes and dots.
Then there were the fish that insisting on posing for a picture, like this slightly constipated looking pennant bannerfish.
There were also bottom dwellers like blue-spotted stingrays.
They always seem to stare up so malevolently at us.
There were also other fairly amusing fish, like this doublebar goatfish. They like to rest on coral and pretend that they are not there, innocently spacing out, as if if they can’t see us we can’t see them!
Others showed off their colours beautifully against the coral, like these panda butterflyfish and peacock grouper.
DC is obsessed with the pufferfish family, just like I’m obsessed with hawkfish. His favourite shot of the whole trip is this seal-faced puffer that he cornered in a coral niche. It’s cute, isn’t it?
Not so cute is this giant frogfish that has its mouth open in wait for unsuspecting prey. In a split second, it’ll pounce and the prey will be in its belly.
Far less grotesque were pretty nudibranchs slowly making their way across the coral gardens.
They were surprisingly hard to spot among the colourful backdrop of coral, but once found, a joy to photograph.
Far harder to photograph were the pink anemonefish, who were so skittish, this is probably the only decent one I got amongst the tens of shots I took.
Going down to the seriously macro-level, I found some large whip gobies on a sea fan and thankfully this one wasn’t as shy as my next subject.
The Denise pygmy seahorses were such a pain to photograph. My camera had great difficulty focussing on the tiny creatures smaller than my fingernail. This one is pregnant and had the tendency to swim to the underside of the sea fan, making it impossible to catch on camera.
DC got this picture that’s far superior to mine, it’s so beautiful how he managed to capture the eye and its almost serene expression.
We had some good luck on sandy patches at the house reef at night. There was a flamboyantly coloured Spanish dancer.
There was also this strange blob of a sea slug oozing its way along.
Much prettier was this variation of a reeftop pipefish that wiggled its pretty pink tail and didn’t seem to mind the many flashes from our cameras.
Then there was the bizarrely shaped longhorn cowfish that seemed to have difficulty navigating its way out of this patch of seagrass.
Back on the coral reef, there were other oddities like this leaf scorpionfish with its glassy white eye staring out at us while swaying back and forth in the water pretending to be a leaf.
In the anemone were some porcelain crabs, which were quite shy. This one kept scuttling towards the underside of the anemone and it was really hard to keep up with it before it disappeared from sight.
A rare sight in the coral was this peacock flounder. Normally associated with muck diving, I was thrilled to see this one swim along and then try to rather unsuccessfully camouflage itself on some maze coral. Its googly eyes and patchy colouration gave it away immediately!
There were also quite a few shrimp and other crustaceans hiding out in crevices. Here’s DC trying to get a good snap of some shrimp.
They were some kind of orange cleaner shrimp that I have yet to identify, very pretty though!
Other cleaner shrimp like these commensal shrimp also hung around the same area. Both kinds would come out onto my hand and pick away at dead skin. I suppose it makes good eating for them. And round goes the circle of life!
There were also these spiny rock lobsters in another hole. I was so tempted to pull them out by their feelers but of course resisted. It’s a pity they were so shy though!
Back on the surface of the coral reef, we were happy to see the bigger fish thriving. There were plenty of sweetlips about, including these adult harlequin sweetlips that seemed to love giving a mirror mirage by going in pairs above and below the coral.
Then there was this emperor angelfish that came up to pose for a picture on my last dive. Such an obliging creature!
And last of the fish, there was this white mouth moray looking out for prey.
Unfortunately, as this video shows, it’s a bit of FAIL because it got slapped in the face by a passing fish. So much for being a lean, mean predator.
The nicest finale to our dive was getting up close to this turtle. As we approached, the green turtle was facing us and knew full well of our approach. Somehow it didn’t swim away.
DC got in close enough for a really macro shot of it.
But then we noticed something odd about the way it was rocking back and forth.
We realised that it was stuck in the coral! For the sake of this turtle, I broke one of the laws of diving – don’t touch any creature – and tugged it gently out. It got free and immediately coasted up towards the surface for a good breath of fresh air.
It was such a lovely feeling to end our successful series of dives by helping out a stranded turtle.
I’m not very lucky with big fish. Whenever we’re out for a dive to see something like a special sort of shark or bumphead parrotfish or whatever, I rarely get the first glimpse. Also, my group is invariably the one that doesn’t see anything while other people spend ages looking at it. Case in point was that my group was the only one throughout the whole 4-day trip that didn’t see a single leopard shark, not even at the dive site named after them.
Perhaps it’s because I don’t see as many big fish or perhaps just out of sheer perversity, I like taking pictures of small fish. Each trip, I take one of the prerequisite photos of clownfish. These here playing in the anemone are called false clown anemonefish. It’s funny how they look so cute frolicking among the anemone tendrils yet have such grumpy expressions up close.
Next is a series of my favourite little fish: the hawkfish family. These are infernally difficult to get good pictures of because they’re very shy. The pixy hawkfish is one of the shyer ones. Even though they’re rather common, most of the time I see them peeking out from a coral crevice. Either that, or the dart of a tail into shelter. I like the way it cocks its head very slightly to one side as if posing for a picture.
Much less frequently, I spot the freckled hawkfish. It’s funny how it comes in two variations. I like the one with bright orange-red and white streaks better.
The duller version somehow looks a million times grumpier. It still has freckles on its chin, just not the cute bright red ones of its prettier variation.
The trick to small fish is merely patience, not luck. Once I spot one, I normally lie in wait for it to emerge and get used to me. Most small fish like either pause for a while to rest on a bit of coral, or stay in their own territory. It’s not terribly hard to get in a few shots in good light for fairly decent photos. Plus, good pictures compensate loads for bad luck with big fish.